Breguet continues to feel just like “the lookout that got away,” which more or less means its strings could easily fly under your radar and pass you by. If you don’t pay very close attention, it’s extremely easy to miss new releases in the storied Swiss watch brand called for the secretary of modern horology. My love affair with many of the new products such as this one proceeds despite the company’s mostly absent use of contemporary marketing or widespread communication that is essential is today’s really busy world of luxury mechanical timepieces. In other words, it requires a whole lot of hands-on time with Breguet watches in order to correctly separate them from the competition.Breguet was the darling acquisition of Nicolas Hayek Sr. who coveted the brand for its heritage, achievements, and particular flavor of standard design. The brand’s comparative quiet from the luxury watch industry – a marketing-driven sector – could only be clarified by ego. The brand believes they’re sexy enough to attract attention from the right people without needing to work hard to receive it. Perhaps they are right. I mean, here I’m waxing poetic about the brand’s products despite the fact that they occasionally appear to forget it is the 21st century… ah, the joys of enjoying mechanical timepieces in our contemporary age.
502.3SD — an extra-thin 2.4millimeter movement which carries a number of contemporary flourishes such as a silicon equilibrium spring and lever escapement with silicon pallets. This movement has an operating frequency of 3Hz and affords an energy reserve of 45 hours.Available in either rose gold or white gold, the 40mm instance itself also carries some very nice detailing, such as fluting in the caseband and vintage-inspired, welded lugs with screwed pubs which complete the look.
One thing was problematic with the older ref. 5140: its thickness. This was was presumed to be a dress watch and with an instance measuring 10.80mm was obviously not thin. This was even more blatant when this view was compared to the time-only sibling, the 5157, which shares the exact same foundation automated motion but with a case measuring just 5.4mm. You may readily argue that a small-second adds some thickness both to the motion (well, this isn’t totally true) and to the dial, believing that you need to recess the sub-dial (so the dial is thicker) and the second and hour hands must examine the second hand, meaning that their axis is put higher on the dial. But clearly, this implies maximum 1mm difference, rather than 5.4mm gap (yes the 5140 was the double of this 5157). There was actually something not understandable here.It appears that Breguet heard our ideas, as the main shift from the 5140 into the new Classique 7147 concerns the thickness. And we mean, they made a dramatic change. Not half of a millimeter or even 1 millimeter. To the case of the older version, to create the 7147 only 6.1mm thin. That is really a radical evolution. If Ferrari was eliminating 300kg in their smallest Berlinetta without altering the engine, imagine the effects on handling and performances. That is the exact same here, because Breguet keeps the exact same movement as the 5140, meaning that the calibre 502.3 SD. The watch today has the proportions that its super slim motion required. The effects on the wrist are all of course massive, the Breguet Classique Mens Watch 5335 Br 43 9w6 Replica 7147 being currently a watch that could easily fit under a shirt’s cuff and gaining a lot in elegance. Obviously, some (like me) will assert about a diameter that’s a bit too large. 40mm, for such a watch, is not small — and add to that the long celebrity of Breguet.
Breguet continues to feel like “the watch that got away,” which more or less means its watches could easily fly under your radar and pass you by. In the event you don’t pay really close attention, it is extremely easy to overlook new releases in the storied Swiss watch brand called for the secretary of modern horology. My love affair with lots of the new products such as this one proceeds despite the organization’s mostly absent use of modern marketing or widespread communication that is essential is today’s really busy world of luxury mechanical timepieces. In other words, it takes a whole lot of hands-on time together with Breguet watches in order to properly distinguish them from the competition.Breguet was the darling acquisition of Nicolas Hayek Sr. who coveted the brand for its heritage, achievements, and particular flavor of standard design. The brand’s relative quiet in the luxury watch business – a marketing-driven industry – could only be clarified by ego. The brand thinks they are sexy enough to draw attention from the right people without needing to work hard to get it. Perhaps they are right. I mean, here I am waxing poetic about the brand’s products despite the fact that they occasionally appear to forget it’s the 21st century… ah, the joys of enjoying mechanical timepieces in our modern age.
It’s not the previous timepiece I would want to own, but for the ideal person it could function 90% of the dress watch needs. It also offers swathes of details you just cant find too many other (or some other) places which helps to make it worth the price premium. As I mentioned earlier, Breguet products two variations of this Breguet Classique 7147 as the benchmark 7147BR/12/9WU in 18k rose gold and the mention 7147BB/12/9WU in 18k white gold. Cost is $21,000 USD and $21,500, respectively.Of the thousands of watches shown in Baselworld, literally nothing seems quite like a Breguet. That’s especially so when it comes to the new visually distinct Classique collection that marries the technical sophistication of Breguet’s modern movement capability with exceptionally ornate, hand-engraved motifs inspired by many of the decorative codes that were formerly utilized in the first days of watchmaking. Two new models have only joined the Breguet Classique secure: the three-hand Breguet Classique 7147, and a refresh into the award-winning, time zone-jumping Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727. But if you are only looking to dip a toe into the world of Breguet’s exceptional hand-finishing, the Breguet Classique 7147 could be the ideal place to start, as it uses many of the exact same impressive signatures as the others in the group, at a more viable cost. Here, you’ll find the textured “Clous De Paris” or hobnail finishing throughout the center dial, and also a cross-woven small seconds subdial at 5:00 — both of which neatly contrast the gorgeous heat-blued pomme hands which, nowadays, are more collectively referred to as “Breguet hands” because of their invention by Abraham-Louis Breguet from the late 1700s.
Within the ultra-thin case of this Classique 7147, the movement now feels right in place. It was a shame to use a 2.4mm thick motion and to not gain from these proportions… It’s now solved. This movement, Calibre 502.3 SD, is actually based on a 46 years old engine, created by Frederic Piguet at 1970, under the title Calibre 70. This type of depth remains today pretty impressive for an automated motion. This old movement, without “cheating” using a micro rotor, is still quite up-to-date, do not you think? Of course, the motion has been updated since its beginning in 1970. First, it has a much nicer finish than before (guilloche rotor, Geneva stripes, polished bevelled angles onto the bridges, chamfered brakes’ spokes…) but in addition, it has modern technical options, such as a free-sprung equilibrium and an antimagnetic silicon coil — two features which will considerably help timekeeping and reliability. Ultimately, this movement retains its particular appearance, with all the off-centered 3/4 rotor and the open barrel.This new Breguet Classique 7147 is one of their newest hi-tech watch, together with all the 5157 (no small second variant). But this does not mean that you won’t enjoy all the typical attributes of a Breguet — that certainly are the main reason why you desire such a watch. Obviously the brand new slender case makes it simpler but the true beauty is in the details:the fluted circumstance, in golden. All Breguet watches share fine grooves improved with double beading on the case band. The fluted pattern is cold-rolled to the case band then completed by hand on a mechanical workpiece-holder. On this slender watch, this routine is quite discreet and provides a great elegance to the case,the standard straight lugs. Screw-pins, rather than the more usual sprung bars, hold the strap between the horns. Lugs aren’t machined but compacted to the scenario, a more difficult operation.The trick signature. On each side of this 12 numeral are two engraved Breguet signatures, just observable when in oblique light (and certainly more difficult to see in real life than on our photos here),the Breguet hands. All these blued hands with bizarre “moon” tip are now a classic in watchmaking but their creation must be credited to Abraham Louis Breguet (same for its Breguet numerals…). The Breguet Classique 7147 obviously features this pair of hands.The engine-turned dial. It shows 4 different themes: clou de Paris at the middle, stripped squares at the small second, circular graining for those tracks, which can be separated by a fourth stippling pattern. These dials are made by hand, and are only accomplished by trained amateurs.
This time around, however, that the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727 forgoes the North America map motif on the dial in favor of much of the exact same instance detailing and white gold dial ending on the Breguet Classique 7147 — ultra-classic design language that many fans could likely agree believes yet more Breguet, if that were even possible. Obviously, the biggest differences on this watch lie in its Cal. 77F0 motion, which allows the wearer to simultaneously “leap” four different purposes at once, ensuring that the perfect synch between home time and another time zone anywhere in the world. The Cal. The Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727 is $68,600 in rose gold and $69,100 in snowy gold.Until Baselworld 2016, among Breguet’s entry-level watches in the Classique series (which sets apart the Sort XX, a pilot-oriented chronograph, somehow quite different from the rest of the catalog) was the mention 5140, a nice automatic watch with superb guilloche dial and many details that made it adequately original. This season, the well-established manufacture introduces a new edition, under the title Breguet Classique 7147. At first, this new iteration seemed extremely like the one it replaces. But do not be fooled by appearances, there’s a lot to appreciate in this 7147 and more improvements than what you’d expect. Let’s look at it in details.
Total, this watch must be regarded as something different than just an entry level. Obviously, at 21,000 Euros it is not cheap but do keep in mind a number of things. To begin with, it’s a fantastic movement, one of the slimmest automatic ones on the industry. Then, it is a Breguet and a gold watch, meaning that is has all the typical (and not economical to create) characteristics of the brand. In the end, it’s now ultra-thin. As being a Breguet, it has an undoubtable charm, tinted with a sort of obsolete look and old-money elegance. This Breguet Classique 7147 doesn’t violate the codes but it’s clearly a welcomed evolution. Offered in 18k pink gold and 18k white gold. In shops in July 2016. Originally based in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, they’ve grown into one of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world.They have been leading innovators from the watch-making industry and are the historians of the first tourbillons, and created one of the first wristwatches. With a machined guilloche patterned confront giving some depth to the otherwise straightforward dial design. And blued steel open tipped hands, that have been an icon of Breguet layout.
The Breguet 7147 is a handsome dress watch with elegant proportions, as well as a hint of quirkiness thanks to the off-centre sub-seconds, a detail that makes an eminently traditional watch a little bit more interesting. Though largish for a dress watch at 40 mm in diameter, the 7147 is appreciably thin, standing just 6.1 mm high thanks to the highly regarded extra-slim movement inside. And the 7147 may look familiar because it is not an entirely new watch, rather a facelifted version of the Classique 5140.
One of the more accessibly priced Breguet dress watches, the Classique 7147 is almost identical to its predecessor from a distance, but recognisably different up close. To start with the Classique 7147 is significantly slimmer, just 6.1 mm – compared to the 10.8 mm of the 5140. This gives the 7147 an elegant profile and a cultivated persona.
The other tweaks to the design are largely aesthetic, with the 7147 having a wider chapter ring for the hour numerals, wider-grain hobnail engine-turning on the centre of the dial, as well as a 45 degree tilt to the crosshatch guilloche on the seconds sub-dial. All the changes are minor in themselves, but together they give the 7147 a marginally more modern look than the 5140; the style remains vintage Breguet.
As is tradition, the dial is a disc of solid 18k gold that is engine-turned, silver-plated and then coated with a clear varnish to prevent tarnishing. The individual number of the watch is printed on the dial at 12 o’clock, just beside the Breguet logo, a tradition that started with the original Breguet pocket watches. And on either side of the 12 o’clock marker is the Breguet “secret signature”, a tiny engraved “Breguet” in italics that was originally used on Breguet pocket watches to distinguish the real deal from fakes. The hands – Breguet hands naturally – are made of blued steel.
46 years old but still in good form
Despite being an entry-level model, the Classique 7147 is equipped with an extra-thin movement that has its origins in the Frederic Piguet calibre 70 introduced in 1970 (and later known as the calibre 71). Elegantly thin and refined, if slightly delicate, the calibre 71 is now known as the Breguet calibre 502.3SD and found only in Breguet, or sister company Blancpain’s, watches.
Despite being 46 years old, the calibre 502 is comparable in height to more recent ultra-thin movements, being just 2.4 mm high. Over the years the calibre 502 has been heavily upgraded, most notably with a free-sprung, adjustable mass balance, as well as a hairspring in silicon, a material valued for its immunity to magnetism and temperature changes. Such tweaks are substantive improvements that improve the timekeeping and reliability of the calibre. That being said, the movement still retains its distinctive construction that makes it instantly recognisable, namely the off-centre rotor, open barrel that reveals the mainspring as well as the sub-seconds at five o’clock. And it is the unusual movement construction that places the seconds at five o’clock.
Pricing and availability
Hitting stores in July 2016, the Classique 7147 replaces the 5140 and is available in rose or white gold. The Classique 7147BR in rose gold is priced at US$21,000 (or S$30,200 in Singapore), while the Classique 7147BB in white gold is US$21,500 (or S$30,900 in Singapore).